Day 12 and 13 Rehoboth to Shiprock

 Day 12 and 13  Rehoboth to Shiprock

It is Sunday morning, I am sitting In the back yard of John Greydanus the pastor at Bethel Christian Reformed church. He has chickens and an amazing garden with a variety of vegetables.  It is a quiet morning as there is yet no hustle and bustle as everyone is sleeping.  A great change in routine.  Every morning when we ride there is this sense of urgency to hurry hurry to get out early to get out on the road and to get to the next camp site.  I miss the quietness of early mornings at home where I have time to do my devotions and mediate before Hank gets up.  Thank you Lord for a day of rest, we will rejoice and be glad in it today.

Yesterday  I did not ride as I wanted to give my legs and my hand a couple of days of rest to see if I cannot get to a point I no longer have problems with pushing myself up the hills without difficulty.  I am hoping a couple of days off will make a difference.

Yesterday was our first really long day.  Over 27 cyclists had never ridden this far, so for them it was a real accomplishment to say they had ridden a century ride.  The day started out with an announcement that the ride for the day would have to be cancelled due to a bridged wash out on the only highway straight to Shiprock from Gallup.  God threw us a curve and we faced another challenge.  Number three. What to do now??  We had to make decisions quickly as cyclists were starting to get out on the road. We told cyclists not to live till we had more clarity on the severity of the wash out as the DOT stated road closed to all vehicular traffic.  We could stay at Rehoboth for another day but that our mean we would ride on Sunday than another 6 days in a row to stay on schedule.  Again not an option for cyclists. Ken Zylstra the development Director at Rehoboth immediately got on the phone to State Police as he had some contacts to see if we could at least the cyclists to get across the detour area.  The alternative was a 150 mile ride versus 97 miles.  Not an option.  Fortunately, within 15 minutes we are told by state police the cyclists could get through but the support vehicles would have to go around.  (Thanks Ken for your help in getting us on the road.)

Now what? We needed to provide a support to the cyclists to all the way to the detour and then pick it up on the other side.  It was decided that one of then SAGs would immediately head out to get to the other side of the detour to be there when cyclists crossed the bridge. Fortunately, there were also a number of Christian Reformed Churches along the route and they were already planning to provide some refreshments along the route.  So cyclists could get water and some food.  Two SAGs were sent to be along the route before the detour and I would provide the Sweep to the cyclists to ensure all cyclists got beyond the detour. 

Shery Mulder and I worked together to provide Sweep.  I would be showing Shery how to do this as she could no longer do all the work in the kitchen due to an inflammation in her arm and the possibility of reoccurrence of her lymphoma that she had 15 years earlier.  A tough thing for Shery to deal with and she was having mixed emotions, but she was making the best of the day and seeing where God now wanted to use her.   

Shery and I started out together along with Rich and Carol Rienstra as Carol had a flat in camp and seemed to have problems with a tire.  She decided to throw her extra tire into the van in case she might need it.  I told Rich and Carol I could drive them up to one of the SAG stops up head so they would not be too late getting into camp.  I dropped them off about 30 miles into the ride. It was a blessing as she did not need the tire as another cyclist did who had a cut in the side wall of his tire.  As we were riding past cyclists I was counting to see how many we past and who they were so I could keep track of who might need to be swept in.  At one point I thought I had accounted for all the cyclists only to be told by two cyclists who I thought were the last, that there were still two cyclists behind them.  I immediately turned around to find out where they were and how far back they were.  I found them several miles behind and checked to see what was wrong.  They had had a flat tire.  Fortunately they (Mark and Dave) were both young strong riders and would be able to catch up which they did. When they got to the SAG stop we check Mark’s tire and noticed that the new tube he had put in was already starting to bulge out. Carols spare tire in the van ended up being a gift to Mark at that moment.  Thanks Lord!  We were able to help 3 cyclists who had flats and needed tubes and a tire. 

 
Mark with a member of Bethleham CRC a church he grew up in

 
                                                                         some off road driving

                                                                      these really are bus roads

Chad and Eric Verluis changing a flat tire

 

                                   Church members selling food to cyclists and others along the roadside

Along the route we visited 2 CRC churches and 2 other CRC churches had stops along the highway providing food and drink. These are all Navajo churches that do not have lots of resources, but the people were kind and caring.  One man, Donavan, and his family followed the tour all the way to Shiprock and were at every SAG stop.  He thought he might now a short cut around the detour but was not 100 % certain he knew the way.  Another local ended up directing us.  We ended up off roading in my van, Cary one of the SAGs in a DRS van, Mark and His wife for 8 miles on dirt roads that I would never have identified as roads but was told this is part of the bus route for school.  Unbelievable but what a blessing we did not have to do the 130 mile detour.

I should mention that we had a cyclist on this section named Mark Heberts I believe who had grown up in the area and cycled a few days.  Mark’s story is Incredible as he was told last fall that he had a huge tumor in his leg and was told it might need to be cut off.  Fortunately, that did not happen and he was able to have the tumor removed with some limitations and he was able to ride 100 miles with SAG support by his wife Deb.  A beautiful couple with lots of joy in spite of the challenges they face. 

All the riders managed to get in by 415 which is really fantastic considering the 97 mile day. All the riders were pretty determined to bike the whole way today. 

We had expected to stay at Shiprock High School, but when  Phil got there he determined this was not a good place to stay as there was no water or power hook up for our vehicles.  John Greydanus graciously offered us his church property to tent.  What a blessing John is to the tour.  He is a God send to us and to many others.  He told me he has 3 more bike groups coming through in the next two weeks.

I do not know if I will get another chance to blog today as it is Sunday and I am on Sweep team duty this afternoon , meaning I have to help clean  out the gear truck which we have to do every week and help serve supper.  Everyone serves on a sweep team every nine days and my turn is today.  Tomorrow morning I will have to get up earlier to assist the cooks in setting out breakfast and lunch food and then help clean up the site and maybe help load the trailer.  This is can be a topic for another blog. 

I need to sign off now and hopefully upload to the Internet without difficulty.  Thanks for all the words of encouragement and prayers.  We know we have a strong and meaningful support community that is praying for our safety and that we may be a blessing to people we meet on this tour.

 

Blessing on this our Lord's Day we are rejoicing and thankful for the Lord's protection and blessings this week and the weeks ahead. 

 

Day 11 Zuni to Rehoboth

Since it was going to be a shorter riding day today, we all started later.  I started at 705 with temperature at 61 degrees. I rode with Donna Ragen from Oregon. She said she was in no hurry today and would stay with me.  My legs are still giving me trouble and every time I tried to push hard I feel my quads just tightening up.  I am afraid I will get severe cramps.  So I took it slow and still managed to average 12 mph. 

Apalosa pony

Looking closely you might see some cave openings

thistle along roadside

 

 

It was interesting how the terrain changed from Zuni to Rehoboth.  We left the red rocks came in greenish brown back into cream red rocks. The rock formations are pretty amazing and it makes us wonder how these all came about.  We did learn that centuries ago Mexicans came north thinking there was gold in the land where Zuni's lived and the Zuni's retreated high onto the mesas that we saw today.

We stopped for a fruit smoothy in Gallup and spoke with the proprietor who told us he teaches at Rehoboth Christian School sometimes and were familiar with the place we were staying.  He has only been here 4 years and took over this coffee shop when the owner wanted to sell.  He is originally from New Orleans and knew he did not want to stay there. Interesting person.

We also rode along part of historic Route 66.  There was an old hotel see picture that had names of famous people who once slept there.  We read over 20 names on the first floor.  It was still very authentic and neat to visit.

Historic hotel

historic route 66 road sign

Navajo painting on building

 

Inside historic hotel

Once I got into camp we were again delighted to hear we could stay in an air conditioned school.  It is a very beautiful facility. The guys have been assigned to sleep in the gym and the girls in another large room. We thought this was funny, but it all good. 
After I arrived I went to the hospital to have my arm x rayed and it did not show  any fracture. However when I push my thumb up it still hurts so I have a removable brace that I can take off to shower.  It is a relief, but I will be happy when the pain is all gone. 

We learned a lot about the area.  What is interesting is that this community has also been supported by the Christian Reformed Church for a long time.  Rehoboth seems to be flourishing where as Zuni seems to be struggling.  The whole town of Zuni seems poor where as Gallup and Rehoboth there is a lot of commerce, hotels and stores. Interesting to note how areas 40 miles apart can differ so much.  Probably the key is high 40 runs close by and there is an exit right here in Gallup.

When I ponder our mission work both here and "Rehoboth I wonder about how much we have empowered the Navajo and Zuni to determine their own future rather than depending on outsiders to solve their problems.  After 100 years it makes me wonder when both areas will be completely independent from donations. 

Rehoboth Christian School

the church

One of the issues in dealing with poverty here and overseas is that as North Americans with money we often think we know all the answers for people and impose our systems and values on a culture that is very different.  What I like about the organizations benefiting from the Sea to Sea funds is that they walk along side of people to help them figure out how to solve their own problems. These organizations might provide initial seed funding to get people started on their business or projects but they take responsibility for making it work and be successful.

Poverty alleviation is not simple, but we still need to keep working at helping people.

I did decide not to ride the 97 miles tomorrow to give my legs and hand some relief for 2 days.  Hopefully I will be able to ride on Monday with little difficulty.

Daily stats  6 flats and 2 falls

• Distance42.54 mi
• Duration3h:32m:19s
• Avg. Speed12.0 mph
• Max. Speed35.9 mph
• Calories2179 kcal
• Min. Altitude5986 ft
• Max. Altitude6970 ft
• Total Ascent1257 ft
• Total Descent1134 ft
• Cadence53 rpm

Day 10 St John's to Zuni

Had a really good nights sleep and woke up to the sound of canons going off at 5AM which is a tradition for July 4th in St John's.  They fired 13 rounds so we were surly awake. I forgot to mention that the rest rooms were a good walk from where we are camped.  So long walk at night and the morning

As today it was July 4th we all sported American flags including the Canadians. We are also leaving Arizona today and entering New Mexico. 

I left this morning after a prayer for the road with Barb, Jane and Danita Blowers from NY. It was 615 and 61 degrees.   My legs felt like lead and I struggle to get up to 12 m/ph. It seemed like I was riding on a flat tire.  As we were biking under a power line Barb felt shocks and asked if any of us had felt them.  None of us had so we thought Barb was being fully charged. She really did feel the shocks from the rivets on her bike.  A little strange

 Barb and Danita left us fairly soon as I was slower than they wanted to go. When I got to the first SAG I pumped up my tires to 105 lbs.  I had them at 90 on advice of other cyclists.  I rode a little easier.

People were in good spirits and enjoying the ride.  The terrain changed a bit and we saw vast vistas. The road was rolling with mostly 1-3% grades both up and down,  We could see the road ahead for  miles.
As Jane and I were riding along we also ran over a dead snake.  Jane went back to take a picture.  she not only got a picture but she also cut off the rattle with her scissors and took it long. It still rattles.
Jane had gone ahead of me, but was waiting for me at the SAG stop and we finished the ride together. It was shortly after 12, 100 degrees when we got in and stopped at the local grocery store right by the school for our favorite after bike ride treat - chocolate milk.

I managed to get in without having any cramps in my legs, I will see how tomorrow goes before I decide to ride the 97 miles to Shiprock on Saturday. 

One of cyclists sporting a tu tu today.  Try to convince some of the guys to try it on.

Rudy and Shirley Folkerts who ride recumbent.

                                                 Jane Brouwer sporting her American flag.                

Billy D riding up along side encouraging me and asking if I needed any thing.  He is much appreciated by cyclists

Pia Mesa coming into Zuni,

 

As we rode through the country we marveled at God's handiwork and the vastness of everything out here.  So much space and few people

 

Daily stats

 

Distance55.25 mi

Duration4h:27m:27s

Avg. Speed12.4 mph

Max. Speed27.6 mph

Calories2731 kcal

Min. Altitude5597 ft

Max. Altitude6556 ft

Total Ascent1427 ft

Total Descent931 ft

Cadence62 rpm

 

Stats for yesterday

Distance77.50 mi

Duration5h:10m:15s

Avg. Speed15.0 mph

Max. Speed40.7 mph

Calories4216 kcal

Min. Altitude5581 ft

Max. Altitude6621 ft

Total Ascent1228 ft

Total Descent2058 ft

Cadence63 rpm

 Dowa yalanne Mesa south of Zuni.  wood pile for burning in  the ovens

 

We are staying at Zuni Christian Mission School. It is a ministry that was started over 100 years ago by the Christian Reformed Church and continues on today.  Over two thirds of the money comes from donations and grants. One third of the money comes from tuition fees.

 I did some riding around town and found the town very poor.  It was almost depressing. In speaking with the principal of the school Kathy Bosscher she indicates many people live on less than 15000 per year. Nina Chimoni the president of the school board and a person that has live here most of her life, indicates life is hard for people and they depend mostly on the tourist to buy jewelry to make a living.  I asked about farming and she indicates it has been very dry here for 9-10 years. The Little Colorado is almost dry and she believes towns up stream take water out for their use so towns below stream get very little.  This town depends on artesian wells for all their water needs.  You do not see any green grass.  Nina also explained to me the earth ovens used for baking bread for large ceremonial feasts that are held in the community.  They are religious in nature and parts of the ceremonies conflict with the Christian faith. The bread baking is a communal effort as sometimes over 100 loaves of bread are baked for the ceremonies. According to Kathy Zuni people live in community here in town whereas the Navajo live on reservations and are more scattered.  Tomorrow we will be in Navajo country. 

 

I am going to publish this post now and may add if I get more interesting info after our peleton meeting tonight.

 

Day 10 Heber to St John’s

Day 10 Heber to St John’s 

I woke up as usual at 330.  I thought I would try getting onto the Internet since everyone was still sleeping.  I was unsuccessful and realized then that something on my computer’s security prevented me from getting on to the Internet.

Barb was having issues with her knees again, so she told Jane and I to head out.  We prayed with Rich and Carol Rienstra before we left.  It is Rich’s birthday today.  I started out by myself at 5 55 and with 59 degree temp. 

The ride was very enjoyable for the most part as we had some nice descents with rolling hills.  At 30 miles my average was 17mph.  The fastest average I have ever had.  However this was short lived as we started our climbing for the day.  I was doing fine until the last 2 hills when my legs started to cramp up and the lactic acid build up in my legs forced me to get off my bike and walk.  It was very painful.  I cannot figure out why I am having so much trouble with cramps as I am drinking lots, using electrolytes, eating 2 bananas a day and taking several tums.  Last night I did stretch and used a massage roller from one of the cyclists and I was fine till we hit the hill at mile 62 when troubles with my legs started.  At mile 73 my legs really cramped up and I was ready to have a SAG pick me up. 

My hand is doing ok, tomorrow I hope to get another x ray to see how the fracture is progressing.  Hopefully I will get the cast off and maybe there may not have been a fracture in the first place.  We will see.

The landscape today was very different from yesterday.  Today the rolling hills are brown with some small evergreen sparsely placed. We are in Apache country for a while.

I did manage to get into camp at noon, so I still had a good day. We are staying at a park in St John’s. Tonight they are showing a film there which we will be able to watch.  As tomorrow is the 4^th of July there will be some celebrations I am sure.

Our showers were a communal shower and the local women said no one ever took their clothes off in these showers. A woman by the name of Cathy pushed the shower heads for people as they only stayed on a second.  Told her she was God's angel to us at this moment. She laughed. All of us were washing our clothes first than our bodies.  The local women got a charge out of all this.  We cannot be modest on this trip.

I am currently sitting in the library, and a huge storm has just come in.  Apparently tents were again blown over by 70 mile and hour winds. My tent is still intact.

I am hurrying to finish this off as the library closes at 5 and I need to upload pictures yet which always takes lots of time.

Day 9 Payson to Heber

Day 9 Payson to Heber

Did not have a good night’s sleep and did not feel rested this morning.  Was awake a number of times during the night. Got up at 450 to start the normal routine.  Jane, Barb and I were going to bike together. Jane got ahead of us pretty quickly and Barb experienced some issues with her knees so she and biked slower than Jane.  When Jane got to the 1^st SAG she headed out with Christeena Nienhuis and managed to get into camp at 1030. Barb and I continued together but Barb pulled ahead of me going up the hills as her knees seem to be getting better.  In the meantime I pedaled slowly up the hills stopping frequently to catch my breath, to bring my heart rate down and to relieve the lactic acid build up in my legs.  As I was biking up the hill, my body was telling me I am crazy and to quit, but in my mind I keep telling myself you can do it, just take more breaks.  I felt like the little engine that could

When I arrived at the top of the 10 mile climb, I was surprised to see Barb had waited for me as it had taken me a long time to get up the hill with all the stops I had to make.  I appreciated Barb’s thoughtfulness. Unfortunately once I started biking again my legs were not comfortable and I told Barb to go on without me.  I did not want to hold her back.  We were rewarded with some beautiful views of the country we were biking through.

 

 

The ride today was really very grand In spite of my challenges.  We biked up to the rim of the large valley and saw grand vistas, with mountains and hills covered with Evergreen trees. I did notice it is very dry.  Hope to post some pics when Internet allows me to upload.

As we were starting supper a sudden rain storm came in and we scrambled for cover.   God’s showed us his fireworks.  We thought this was neat between the Canada Day and Independence Day.  We felt the temperature drop 10 degrees within minutes.  We scrambled to get sweat shirts or rain jackets.  Wearing jackets has been foreign to us due to the excessive heat we have had for a week.  It felt good to put on a sweat shirt again.

Daily stats      total flats to date 90 
Distance52.08 mi

Duration4h:36m:19s

Avg. Speed11.3 mph

Max. Speed38.6 mph

Calories3059 kcal

Min. Altitude4668 ft

Max. Altitude7669 ft

Total Ascent3081 ft

Total Descent1838 ft

Cadence57 rpm

Sunday in Payson

Sunday in Payson

 

This morning as usual I woke up at 430 and looked forward to going to Starbucks at 5 to get a skinny wet latte to charge me up read my devotions and to use the Internet to finish my blog for yesterday.  It was a relaxing time.  I was able to upload a number of pictures very quickly which was great.  By the time I got back to camp after 6 am lots of people were up waiting for breakfast.

Barb had wanted to ride up to Strawberry to look at the road that we might ride on for Monday to determine the difficulty and safety. We grabbed a few items from the breakfast table and headed up the mountain. We went up with Jane, Carol Rienstra and Christeena Nienhuis.  It was a beautiful ride up the mountain with grades mostly 4-5 with a few 6-7 %, there was hardly any shoulder, it was pretty curvy with a number of cars. The local bike shop had spoken out against us doing this and our ride up verified his recommendation. While we were up In Strawberry we did visit the oldest school house In Arizona.  It was a lovely log building with an old potbelly stove inside with all the old desks.  It also had an old outhouse but it was out of order.

 

For church the group split up into three groups.  We went to the local Presbyterian, the Shepherd of the Pines Lutheran church and a local Baptist church. I went to the Lutheran church were we were well received and were provided a lunch.  Many people spoke to the cyclists and they put out a donation basket where people could put in money.  They will send a check to the Sea to Sea office.  The group that went to the Presbyterian Church was also very well received and were provided a lunch.  Again we were blessed as well as being a blessing to people. 

Once we were back at camp as we were relaxing we noticed dark storm clouds in the distance, they appeared to be moving north of us and the storm would miss us.  We were very surprised when suddenly the wind was very strong and tents started blowing over.  Several of us try to keep tents from blowing over.  Unfortunately poles in Barb’s tent were damaged.     

Henry Devries and Phil Quist also reported that they had a great service in Phoenix and were well received.  Henry had the opportunity to preach the message and Phil had an opportunity to share what Sea to Sea was all about. People were very receptive and encouraging.  Phil and Henry both received a number of envelops with donations to Sea to Sea.               

                                                               Peleton meeting in Payson

                                                       cyclist enjoying sitting in the cold river.

Sunday in Payson

Sunday in Payson

Sunday morning as usual I woke up at 430 and looked forward to going to Starbucks at 5 to get a skinny wet latte to charge me up read my devotions and to use the Internet to finish my blog for yesterday.  It was a relaxing time.  I was able to upload a number of pictures very quickly which was great.  By the time I got back to camp after 6 am lots of people were up waiting for breakfast.

Barb had wanted to ride up to Strawberry to look at the road that we might ride on for Monday to determine the difficulty and safety. We grabbed a few items from the breakfast table and headed up the mountain. We went up with Jane, Carol Rienstra and Christeena Nienhuis.  It was a beautiful ride up the mountain with grades mostly 4-5 with a few 6-7 %, there was hardly any shoulder, it was pretty curvy with a number of cars. The local bike shop had spoken out against us doing this and our ride up verified his recommendation. While we were up In Strawberry we did visit the oldest school house In Arizona.  It was a lovely log building with an old potbelly stove inside with all the old desks.  It also had an old outhouse but it was out of order.

 

 

For church the group split up into three groups.  We went to the local Presbyterian, the Shepherd of the Pines Lutheran church and a local Baptist church. I went to the Lutheran church were we were well received and were provided a lunch.  Many people spoke to the cyclists and they put out a donation basket where people could put in money.  They will send a check to the Sea to Sea office.  The group that went to the Presbyterian Church was also very well received and were provided a lunch.  Again we were blessed as well as being a blessing to people. 

 

Once we were back at camp as we were relaxing we noticed dark storm clouds in the distance, they appeared to be moving north of us and the storm would miss us.  We were very surprised when suddenly the wind was very strong and tents started blowing over.  Several of us try to keep tents from blowing over.  Unfortunately poles in Barb’s tent were damaged.     

 

I did try riding my bike to see if I could shift with my right hand and I was pleased I could with minimal pain.  The Ava the cyclist doctor suggested I try a 10 mile ride on Monday to see how it goes before I decide to do the ride on Tuesday.  My hand is feeling much better and I am getting use to having a cast on.  Wearing the sling has helped me keep it up.

Henry Devries and Phil Quist also reported that they had a great service in Phoenix and were well received.  Henry had the opportunity to preach the message and Phil had an opportunity to share what Sea to Sea was all about. People were very receptive and encouraging.  Phil and Henry both received a number of envelops with donations to Sea to Sea.             

One funny story from Saturday, Barb Mellema went into Walmart with several people and one cyclist challenged her to act like she was a Walmart greeter which Barb proceeded to do along with sharing the message of Sea to Sea and giving out our business cards. What a hoot.  Barb is a spontaneous fun loving person who laughs a lot and can come up with the craziest things. Sure makes the tour enjoyable.

 

I am posting this right now and hope to add photos later. I am having difficulty uploading any pics right now and hope to finish this later.